The more time we spend with this fascinating and talented grower (remember he was introduced to us by the master, Thierry Allemand), the more we love his beautiful translation of old-vine Cornas and St Péray. Mickael is the real deal: his hands battle-scarred from his daily struggles to hand-rear his vines, on the brutal slopes behind his modest Cornas home. Both cuvées transport one back in time. A pure Marsanne St Péray, its old-fashioned flavours unfurl slowly in the glass, framed by the most deliciously rich texture and classy bedrock minerality. Brilliant white vintage, brilliant wine. And then there’s his perfectly ripe, granite-hewn Cornas with an almost sweet-balsamic edge to the inky, brambly Syrah fruit. Bright with wonderful unforced concentration; just fabulous, vrai Cornas!