A&G Fantino, one of the truly great producers of old-fashioned Barolo; situated in the centre of old Monforte d’Alba. The brothers worked (and co-owned) Bartolo Mascarello between 1978 and 1998, when Bartolo’s daughter Marie-Theresa returned to the property, the bothers sold their shares and returned to their own 5 hectares of ancient vines in the Cascina Dardi section of the Bussia vineyard. From their Barolo vines, they make two expressions of the vineyard: a Barolo Bussia Cascina Dardi, which is fermented in temperature-controlled stainless steel before extended aging in large, old Slavonian oak casks.
A&G Fantino is a tiny jewel of a grower
The second ‘route’ is their Laboro Disobedient; the same Bussia grapes are first given a very short carbonic maceration before being fermented in open wooden fermenters, with no temperature control, followed by aging in cask, like the Barolo. Both are wildly different interpretations of this famous cru; the Barolo is pure, light-footed and perfumed. The Laboro is wilder, darker-fruited, and richer in the mouth. Both are wonderful expressions of Nebbiolo. The brothers also make a Riserva from the best fruit, which is made in the same way as the Barolo but is aged for 48 months (sometimes longer) in cask.