We’ve adored the Batterieberg line-up since our first encounter with winemaker Gernot Kollmann in 2013. We love the wonderfully old fashioned philosophy of the estate, which despite coming under new ownership since 2009 has maintained the same winemaking traditions the Immich family employed for the previous 500 years. The grapes are pressed long and hard to extract as much flavour as possible. The juice then runs by gravity to stainless steel tanks in the cellar below, where it’s allowed to settle for around 24 hours at cellar temperature, before being moved into a mixture of old wooden foudres and barrels where it stays for around 12 months. The wines are allowed to ferment to their own natural, near-as-dammit dryness, without the intervention of sulphur or micro-filtration, as used at so many addresses along this famous river to arrest fermentation and sugar in the wines. Time was when we loved this type of Mosel Riesling but it’s easy to get long of these impractical, overly sweet wines and we craved the satisfying dryness of a ‘proper’ wine.
Batterieberg was the Holy Grail we were looking for: proper ‘nervous’ Mosel Riesling without the cloying sweetness
Gernot farms a series of terrifyingly steep grand cru sites around the village on Enkirch – sites which historically were among the best rated anywhere on the river: Ellergrub, Zeppwingert and the Batterieberg monopole set within the Zeppwingert cru are all incredibly smart pieces of land which produce tightly coiled wines; austere in their youth, revealing generosity and nuance with cellaring.